We will use your answers to these questions to detail the drawings for a Building Control submission, and then the tender set. If there are points you're not sure about, we are happy to chat them through with you.
Knowing roughly how much you'd spend in rent, etc. helps us give a suitable figure for reparations should the project run over time.
If you haven't been provided with a quote yet, let us know so we can source these on your behalf.
Usually these would be located in a front driveway area. We're happy to suggest a position for you to confirm.
Usually this would be located in a front driveway or rear garden. Again, we are happy to suggest a position for you to confirm.
This includes covering with protective matting or being fenced off from the area of works.
If you have a gravel or tarmac driveway, you might want boarding below skips, WC, etc. to prevent damage.
It is assumed to be the client's responsibility to remove and store all furniture and personal items from spaces affected by the works, prior to commencement. The contractor is able to provide a secure heated contained for this purpose if requested.
For example if you want to retain plants from a planted border, we suggest removing these yourself before works commence, as it is likely to be carried out more sensitively than if done by the contractor! If you have any TPO trees, please specify which/where these are as they will need protection and potentially an arborist's input.
For example if you want appliances, kitchen units, or tiles to be reused elsewhere they need to be removed carefully and stored during the works. Please specify which items and where they should be stored. Items not listed will most likely go straight into the skip!
If replacing throughout, we often suggest a powder coated aluminium in a square profile, which gives a modern look. If only replacing in part, we often suggest any new rainwater goods to modern extensions to be as above. If part of an extension is designed to tie in with the existing house, we suggest rainwater goods should match existing.
If replacing throughout we often suggest RAL 7016 (anthracite grey) or sometimes black. Alternatively we can match to existing.
If the property uses a septic tank/cess pit please specify where this is located. If it's already noted on the site plan, you can leave this blank.
If you want new taps but are unsure where, we can suggest locations for you to confirm.
If already shown on planning or survey drawings, we will have assumed this is a standard gas combi/system boiler, unless fuel storage tanks were also shown. Please confirm if this is not the case.
Unless the boiler can be retained in its current position, we assume it will be replaced as part of the works with a system type boiler (i.e. with separate water cylinder) and will aim to locate these items in a utility room if possible. If you have another preference for type/location let us know. If the boiler can remain in its current position but you would like it replaced anyway, let us know. Alternatively, if you require a more sustainable heating system (i.e. air source / ground source heat pumps, solar panels, etc.), let us know.
This includes fireplaces, boilers, gas hobs, etc.
Please note that most retrofit underfloor heating systems have a min. thickness of 22mm. This means that if you install it in some rooms but not all, there will be a difference in finished floor levels. Alternative options can include installing UFH to extended areas only (the screed can be dropped to accommodate the UFH); breaking out existing screed and re-laying with UFH; or raising the floor level of remaining rooms with ply boarding to match (this requires new flooring throughout). If you are unsure, we can discuss these options.
Electrical matting is generally a better system to use in bathrooms and the mats are very thin, so avoid the problems above. If you want this to some bathrooms but not all, please specify.
We usually suggest in a cupboard in the utility or under the stairs - somewhere tucked away. If you don't want underfloor heating, you can leave this blank.
We assume any rooms which you have not specified UFH (and therefore all affected upstairs rooms) will have new radiators, but let us know if you want to replace all existing radiators.
We often specify Stelrad Vitra flat-fronted radiators for a contemporary look, or column radiators for a more traditional alternative. These can often be colour matched to suit. If there are areas you'd like to match new radiators to the existing, let us know.
We usually assume new heated towel radiators to all new bathrooms, with dual fuel controls (so they can be turned on when the heating it off). Let us know if this is not required. We generally won't include heated towel radiators to any WCs with underfloor heating.
For example Nest or Hive systems - please specify if you have a preferred brand. If you also want a hardwired thermostat, let us know a preferred location.
Let us know if you've spoken to a kitchen designer and if they have updated plans, so we can add this to our drawings and schedule of works.
if your existing kitchen is being retained, you can leave this blank.
We usually assume a standard hood extractor if the hob is against a wall, or an in-ceiling extractor in a lowered area of ceiling if the hob is in an island. Alternatives such as in-hob extraction are becoming more common, but please note you may only be able to choose this is the hob is located against a wall or if you have suspended floor construction.
We usually suggest a salt ionising type and normally locate this next to the sink in a utility room where possible.
Again, we usually suggest putting this next to the sink in a utility room.
This is sometimes required for ice makers that are plumbed in.
In this phase of the project we produce internal elevations showing bathroom layouts including tiling, mirrors, sanitaryware, etc. We'll show these to you for comment, but if you tell us any strong preferences here we can include them initially. This includes wall-hung or back-to-wall WCs; wall-hung or counter-mounted basins; handheld or fixed shower heads; deck-mounted or wall-mounted taps; freestanding or fitted baths.
We generally assume slimline shower trays unless wetroom formers are mentioned in the drawings. If you want wetroom formers, please specify which bathrooms and whether you prefer linear or round drainage outlets. Either way, we usually specify drains as having hair catcher and easy access for cleaning.
These can be individual tiled recesses or taller alcoves with glass shelves. If space is restricted this might not be possible, but can be a nice practical feature where possible. We're happy to suggest positions for you to confirm.
We usually assume full height fixed screens unless noted otherwise on the drawings.
Some extractor fans run constantly in the background then increase their output when the room becomes more humid. Others can be switched on and off manually, or with a light switch.
For example limestone, sandstone, slate, tiles, or something else like permeable paving.
If you're not adding or replacing any hard landscaping, you can leave this blank.
For example we often ask for additional gravel to be added to the driveway on completion of the works.
Please note this would not be for joinery items, only integral cupboards.
We usually suggest not, unless the property is a period home and we are tying in with the existing. If there are rooms which aren't affected by the works, consider whether to remove any coving etc. here and make good.
For example, engineered timber or tiles to ground floor, carpet to bedrooms, etc. For open plan designs it can be nice to keep floor finishes continuous where possible, even into kitchens and bathrooms. We're happy to suggest for you.
These tend to be either metal or hardwood. If metal, we recommend matching to your other internal ironmongery. Again, we're happy to suggest.
Leaving this as bare concrete is the most cost effective option, or you could choose a resin or painted resin finish for a higher spec. If a garage is not part of the project, leave this blank.
We usually suggest acoustic insulation between new ground and first floor elements, but let us know if you want more added to existing areas. While this is nice to have, you should consider the disruption this can cause as it usually requires ceilings being removed and replaced.
If you have a particular make or model in mind, please send us details so we can adjust dimensions to suit.
We often suggest an oak stair with softened square edges (i.e. no nosings - this is subject to Building Control approval). We're happy to find examples of various options and discuss with you. If the stair is unaffected, you can leave this blank.
If you are replacing the stair, you can leave this blank.
We often suggest a simple 'broom handle' oak handrail on pins with concealed fixings. Balustrades could be solid walls, glazed or posts. We're happy to find examples to discuss with you.
Unless the property is a period home and we are tying in with the existing, we usually suggest a simple, square edged profile with softened corners for both skirtings and architraves. Alternatively, a very architectural detail is to have shadow gaps instead of skirtings and frameless doors. We can show you examples if you're unsure.
We usually assume this will stay the same, as it can require additional permission if you want to change.
Consider whether you want this to be the same inside and out - for example we often go for anthracite grey externally and white internally. If you are having timber, do you want it painted or stained differently?
This can depend whether you'd like a contemporary or traditional look and whether you want to distinguish between old and new. Powder coated aluminium can be colour matched, and aluminium-clad timber gives a coloured metal finish outside and timber inside.
For example you might want triple glazing or solar coating. For obscured glazing, we usually assume sandblasted effect but if you prefer a pattern or etching, let us know.
This can depend on your priority - you might want very slim frames, or Crittall style windows. Otherwise, we can ask the contractor to put forward his preferred supplier as part of the tender quote.
This means the blind is built into the frame. If you want this to some windows but not all, please specify. If you don't want integrated blinds but still want a minimal look, you can consider concealed curtain/blind fixings.
Unless the property is a period home and we're tying in with the existing, we usually suggest a simple, square edged profile with softened corners.
Some insurance policies require specific locks, or you might have a personal preference. Consider both external doors and windows.
Let us know your preference for material, style, concealed fixings, etc. If you are only replacing some doors, you might still want to replace ironmongery on existing doors to tie through. We assume thumb-turn locks to new bathroom doors, unless you require something else.
If you don't have any rooflights, you can leave this blank.
We generally assume white painted timber frames internally, unless in a bathroom where they will be UPVC. Let us know if you prefer something else.
We will produce an electrical layout including lighting, sockets, TV + phone points and discuss with you. If you have any preferences, let us know here so we can include them. For example, you might wall lights either side of beds with a pendant, rather than spotlights. Also consider 5amp sockets (so you can hardwire lamps to a wall switch), CAT6 cabling, floor sockets (often used in gyms), sensor lighting. If you want lighting connected to a smart home system please let us know, as this affects the size of light fittings.
We generally assume these go in bathrooms and shower rooms, but not WCs.
This helps stop wall-bonded sheet mirrors misting up when humid. Again, we generally assume these go in bathrooms and shower rooms but not WCs.
We usually suggest locating meters externally and consumer units in a utility room, but these should all be confirmed with your suppliers.
We will include joinery items in the internal elevations we produce, but if you have specific requirements let us know here so we can include them. This could include drawers or shelves, boxes to be stored, hanging rails, bookshelves, etc. If you have a preferred material, such as painted MDF or stained wood finish, let us know that too.
We tend to find eggshell gives a lovely matte finish but does collect dust/is marked quite easily, so often propose a satin as a good middle ground!
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